“Clients actually want a condensed version of haute couture, rather than an entirely different proposition,” said Daniel Roseberry, the American designer and creative director of Schiaparelli, backstage at the spring 2027 show, explaining how he balances the house’s couture heritage with the needs of the contemporary client. Schiaparelli has been one of the most influential haute couture houses for decades, so its presence in the ready-to-wear segment is naturally infused with the couture elements at the very heart of the brand. In his new collection, Roseberry therefore retained the house’s signature codes, adapting them to an everyday context and offering a more relaxed interpretation without straying from its defining aesthetic. Titled Going Clear, the collection explored this idea through a considered approach to ready-to-wear, a segment Roseberry sees as an important part of Schiaparelli’s future.
Striking corsets inspired by the contours of the female body, similar to those he presented in his fall 2026 couture collection, The Abyss, took centre stage, particularly in looks 12, 27 and 35. The collection’s lace pieces also drew particular attention, taking their inspiration from the dress Roseberry created for Bella Hadid’s appearance at the Cannes Film Festival. Inspired by Jane Birkin’s iconic dress, the design was made from lace with a large-scale pattern, which Roseberry has now translated into ready-to-wear through micro shorts, a dress and a bodysuit.
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References to Elsa Schiaparelli’s work, as well as to the essence of the house’s identity, have always been present in Roseberry’s work, and this time they were woven into two key aspects of the collection. Among the most striking examples were the leather and linen ruffles in looks 28, 29, 30 and 31, inspired by the curtains that once adorned the atelier’s windows on Place Vendôme. In his interpretation, Roseberry combined precise construction with softness of form, resulting in a collection almost entirely devoid of rigid, severe lines. For the occasion, the show venue was transformed into a nightclub-inspired setting, with small tables and chairs arranged along the winding runway, while opulent chandeliers heightened the intimate atmosphere.
One of the collection’s key elements centred on the Schiap jacket, a style Elsa Schiaparelli transformed into one of the house’s signatures back in the 1930s. Unlike the understated Chanel jackets, conceived at the time as a comfortable alternative to the cardigan, Elsa’s jackets became a canvas for surrealist experiments and collaborations with artists such as Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dalí. They were worn to dinner, with the lower half of the outfit kept simple, allowing everything above the table to command attention.
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A pink version adorned with striking crystals in various shades was worn by Ivy Stewart, Vogue Adria’s September cover star, bringing Roseberry’s vision for spring 2027 to a close. A blue jacket with black embroidery, a black style with pronounced slits, a design with accentuated shoulders decorated with vegetable motifs, and plush versions all demonstrated how this historic house code can adapt to the contemporary fashion landscape.
With his spring 2027 collection, Roseberry once again showed how Schiaparelli’s history can be translated into a wearable ready-to-wear wardrobe, while the Schiap jacket emerged as one of the key pieces with the potential to further strengthen this segment of the house’s business.
